GIORGIO ARMANI "One night only in Beijing" - by Maria Comparetto

With fellow make-up artist Rafael Pita

31^st May 2012

1 week in Beijing! 2 days makeup fittings, 1-day rehearsal, and then the show!

195 models Total (60 male models/ 135 girls) including lots of new and exciting Asian girls with the most Amazing skin!

Linda Cantello heads the team…organisation is key and a solid team is paramount. Signor Armani is meticulous about detail and has to over see everything. Speaking Italian is a bonus as I am able to translate and convey to Linda what Mr Armani is feeling for the makeup“look” for the show.

The fittings go really well and we have decided on 2 looks for the show. The show is divided into 3 categories, Emporio/Giorgio and prive (couture) running time approx 30 mins it will be circular runway and the different sections will be blending into one another. Finishing with a live performance from Mary J Blige.

The atmosphere is electric back stage and we are all being filmed for a live “backstage stream!” no pressure!. Everything is very organised and models are given name tags showing which is their section so everyone is on the same page.

Call time is midday and the show doesn’t start until 9pm, longest call time ever! But needed as so much to do. As we had already done our makeup demonstrations the day before the team was primed and ready to go! Including the GA face designers we are a  30 strong team of makeup artists and ready for action!.

Emporio & Prive look.

This look was very technical!

Very graphic eyeliner along the lash line, which had to be, applied at just the right angle & thickness! We had been out the previous day to source a product that would not smudge and would stay put for the long wait before the show. False eyelashes, which we also sourced, were also applied which exaggerated the lash line. Beneath the eye a less graphic & smokier line was added which had sections removed in the centre and the outer corner of the eye

A light lip balm was applied & no contouring necessary.

Giorgio Armani Look

This look was organic

Light shadows were applied to the eye area, almost emulating a western socket without it looking like makeup but more abstract. This wash was taken around the outside of the eye and down too the lower lashes a little black kohl pencil was also added to the inside of the corner of the eye to give depth. No masara, or contouring was needed & little if any lip balm was added.

Beijing /China is where it was at..the buzz is astounding and everyone was ready for this Armani extravaganza, including Tina Turner and so many other VIP guests. The stage becomes alive with a Beijing moving skyline projected onto it & the occasional garment detail or close up beauty shot for all to see. The haunting then thumping music starts and the models stride out in all their glory, things come to an end with a statuesque style traditional dance with a model wearing a green dragon gown. Mr Armani takes his bow…What an amazing thing to be a part of. Now Lets Party!!

See it for yourself on youtube or facebook/Armani.and let me know what you think?

By Maria Comparetto Io Donna with Schmidt & Gorges

Maria Comparetto worked on this beautiful 24 page shoot shoot for Io Donna Magazine with photographers Lydia Gorges and Jens Schmidt. Styled by Jane Howard @ MAP with the model Georgie Badiel @ FM Model Agency and Paul Merritt @ Jed Root on hair.

Here's what she had to say about it:

I really enjoyed this shoot for Io Donna.
It was my first time at this particular studio (MKII in Hackney),and working with the ever so lovely Lydia & Jens photographic duo. They have a really great approach to shooting and I felt they really portrayed the London streets where we were shooting in a very different way, making our urban landscape feel really new with fresh angles on architecture and things we take for granted like the regular corner store!

Georgie, the model was so amazing, so gentle and spiritual yet so sassy and cool with a brilliant sense of humour. Paul Merritt had prepared a stunning wig for her which he moulded for every shot.

Jane the stylist made all the clothes look effortlessly blended and created some beautiful wearable looks.This story was mega; 25 pages of fashion could end up looking very 'samey' where makeup was concerned, so I made a huge effort to mix it up a bit and play with textures eye shapes and lashes. I cannot wait to work with this team again,It was a chilled but super fun day with stunning results! wouldnt you say? 

See the full story here.

By Maria Comparetto : Jayne Pierson Presentation - London Fashion Week

Having already done the Jayne Pierson look book for the collection a week before I felt pretty relaxed about this show. 


Jayne's clothes are so beautiful, I was really touched to be asked back to do the makeup yet again with the backing of MAC cosmetics. We went off to Somerset House bustling with the fashionistas, celebrities, models and any other strangely dressed people that were hanging out (including a mini Cleopatra)?!



The look was really ethereal yet beautiful, the skin was slightly paled down and illuminized using lustre drops MAC "Pink Rebel" on the cheek bones and temples.

I used MAC "Pearl" Cream Colour Base on the brow bone and a sweep of MAC "Spite" Lipglass was used on the eyelids but no mascara.

The eyes were emphasised and accentuated by applying MAC "NW 15" Chromagraphic Pencil inside the waterline of the eye and MAC "Greyprint" Technakohl applied liberally under the eye in combination with MAC "Copperplate" Eyeshadow. This was really blended to create a natural shadow. Brow Set "Clear" was applied in an upwards motion to the brows to polish off the eye area.

Using MAC "Tea Petal" Creme blend Blush I lightly contoured the cheeks and used MAC Pro Longwear Lipcreme "Dress it up"  on the lips to finish off the look.  

'The Artist' - Maria Comparetto's tips on how to achieve the Twenties look

By Maria Comparetto.

If you havent seen it already go and see The Artist! It is beautiful and inspiring with amazing performances all round!

The leading lady Bérénice Bejo, blew me away with her charm, wit and I loved her glamorous makeup. For those of you who fancy playing... this is my version of her look.

Skin should be slightly matt, use a foundation that suits your skin tone or go one shade lighter then lightly dust with loose powder (Chanel Poudre Universelle Libre is perfect for this).

Contour the brow and cheek bones with a pressed powder highlighter such as Mac iridescent Pressed powder.

To accentuate the face contour under the cheek bones with a Matt ‘biscuity’ tone.

Sisley Phyto-Sourcils Eyebrow Pencil

Then time to tackle the brows. To achieve this look you must be realistic, if your eyebrows are sparse it will look more authentic as you are able to recreate the thin pencilled brows easily. 


However don't let that put you off ! It works just as beautifully if you slightly mask the brows by lightly brushing some foundation through them with a mascara or brow brush. With a brow pencil, a tone slightly lighter than your natural brows delicately draw a thin line through your natural eyebrows & over your browbone, you can create whatever expression you like depending on the shape you draw, slightly arched is best so as not to appear to stern or angry!

Go over the line with a brow powder, this softens and sets the look.

For the eyes use a graphite grey or browny black close to the lashes and blend the eye shadow onto the lid to create a rainbow shape/hue of colour but keep it light as it's all about the brow! Givenchy Eye & Brow Prism is perfect for this. 

Curl the lashes and apply a gentle coat of mascara, top and bottom.

Lips should be kept quite dark (Sisley Long Lasting Lipstick in Plum or Chanel Rouge Allure in 'La Faschinanante' or 'L'Exquise') with a semi Matt lipstick for the best results but attention must be paid to the shape. Keep the cupids bow slightly pointed as lips were thin and angular around this time.

Finish off with a tiny beauty spot using a sharpened black kohl or Bobbi browns black ink for durability! 

Then shine like the sparkly star you are!! Have fun with it.

My Make-up With Marilyn by Maria Comparetto

After watching a week with Marilyn and being mesmerised by Michelle Williams' performance I felt compelled to talk you through the most iconic look in history! 

The makeup has so many different interpretations but could work very well with a nude lip using Dior Addict Lipstick in Nude rather than the bright red mouth we automatically associate with Marilyn's look. This would keep it looking modern and would best suit those with thinner lips.

The thing that really makes this look for me us not the lips though it's the defined soft brow and taupe (‘not really there’) socket line.

Keep both these elements by defining firstly with a pencil, blending with a brush then softly intensifying using a powder of the same tone such as the Sisley Phyto-ombre éclat eyeshadow in Dune. This makes the eyes ‘pop’. 

Apply a micro thin liquid liner such as Dior Style Liner close to the lashes then apply black mascara on the outer corner of the lashes having curled them first with (my favourite are Shu Uemera) eyelash curlers! 

Do not apply any mascara to bottom lashes. Contour the cheekbones with a Guerlain terracotta bronzer and there you have it!

As well as the nude matt lip, another variations on this could be a cherry lip-gloss such as the Chanel Rouge Allure Extrait de Gloss in Triomphal from the Christmas Collection. (RRP £23.50)
 

Maria Comparetto Sunday Times Style

Maria Comparetto worked with the photographer Karin Berndl on this shoot for Sunday Times Style (27^th November 2011). Here’s what she had to say about it.

The room was full of security guards, the most amazing cakes and taxidermy… Murano lampshades and props crammed into every corner...hundreds of thousands of pounds worth of jewellery and shoes and dresses. This had to be opulent!

The concept for the shoot was by Heidi Taylor. I have worked with Karin Berndl the photographer before and knew this would be amazing.

We wanted the makeup to have an edge but not make it too theatrical or scary.

The Dior Winter collection was perfect for this look! I made the skin a little paler than their natural skin colour and gave it a pearlised quality, typically this period (Marie Antoinette) had very matt skin but I wanted to give it a twist. I used Dior Skinflash Primer (available in January).

Emphasis was added to the lashes using Diorshow Mascara and the brows giving a doll like quality, I didn’t want to make the girls look too young but just couldn’t resist making Fabiana's cheeks pop with hue of Dior Blush in Sunkissed Cinammon and then a touch of the new Dior Tulipe Pink on the lips (available in January). 

Overall I was thrilled with the result and really enjoyed working with Federico the hairdresser for the first time he was vibrant, funny and vey talented.
 

Karin added that the shoot would not have been possible without Simon Lycett (the florist), the cake makers and Harrods.

Movember spawned a Moustache - Grooming tips for Men

You may have noticed a few more moustaches than usual sprouting up recently. This is not a new fashion statement (though for some it might be) but mainly because of ‘Movember’.

On Movember 1st, guys register at Movember.com with a clean-shaven face and then for the rest of the month these men, known as Mo Bros, “groom, trim and wax their way into the annals of fine moustachery” and seek sponsorship for their Mo-growing efforts to raise vital funds and awareness for men’s health, specifically prostate cancer and other cancers that affect men.” (read more here)

In 2010, over 112,000 UK Mo Bros got on board, raising £11.7 million.

The artists at Emma Davies thought it was perfect time to look at male grooming to help these selfless and generous men through the month.

Moustache Tips:

• When trimming your moustache there are two things to consider, the silhouette or outline shape and the overall thickness and length. Shave just around the outside of the moustache and then tidy up properly with scissors and a comb (Kent Brushes have developed one especially for Movember). Use your lip as a template and trim one side first and then the other side. Take your time and try and get the shape as symmetrical as possible, a magnifying mirror would really help with this. Electric trimmers are also good to use but beware as one slip and your mo' could go for a burton! Scissors are safer!

•  Use Moustache Wax from Murdock's or Oregon Wild Hair to add volume and definition to your 'tache. For extra control apply the wax firstly to your moustache then use a hairdryer to warm the wax which makes it more malleable and allows greater control! 

• Choose a style most flattering for your face shape. The size of your philtrum (area between nose and top lip!) will obviously have a bearing on this. i.e. the larger the philtrum the wider the moustache should be.

Anna Cofone however, suggests having fun and men should be experimenting with different shapes, lengths and thicknesses! Anna pointed out how good they can look giving the example of “Johnny Depp at the UK premier of ‘The Rum Diary’ wearing his trademark Tom Ford suit, an open necked shirt and his ever groomed moustache.”

For ‘a very gentlemanly look to match your Movember moustache’ Philippe Tholimet suggests using a bit of any conditioner in your hand to give the hair a feel that it has brillantine in it without using brillantine… He says to comb through the hair then make a side parting with your fingers and let it dry naturally. Philippe says “The hair should look that it has been groomed at some point in time and then this is about a few hours later.”

Eli Wakamatsu’s favourite mens pre-to-post shaving products are from Kiehls as there is a lot of variety for different skin types. She says, “Men’s skin needs to have cleansed well into pores and regular gentle scrubbing at least once a week”. 

Maria Comparetto agrees “Make sure you exfoliate your skin at least once a week”, she suggests using “a ‘sloughing brush’ these are available from most high street stores including Boots, Muji and The Body Shop.”

“This little wooden brush is used to lather up your usual facial wash in the palm of your hand, then with small circular motions massage all over your face and neck for a few minutes (avoiding delicate eye area). Wash the product off using warm water and apply a moisturiser (such as Clinique lotion)”

For a flawless look for the Movember party at the end of the month, Maria says, “Grab your girlfriend’s YSL ‘Touche Eclat’ (or get your own) and dot just under the eyes where you may have dark circles then gently pat with your ring finger until the product disappears, this will reflect the natural light and give you a fresh & rested appearance.” She adds “Just be careful to use the shade that suits you. There are 7 available. You’ll look smokin! and noone will know how/why....”

By Maria Comparetto - The Christopher Raeburn Show LFW Spring/Summer '12

Christopher Raeburn has made his mark on the fashion industry for his outerwear, this season he surpassed our expectations and surprised us by venturing into jersey dresses, trousers and adding much more to his signature pieces.

It is truly British and he prides himself on being ethically aware producing all his garments in the UK. He uses dead stock fabrics, such as parachute and military blankets & recycles them to make cool, wearable clothes for all ages.

The setting for his presentation was The London Museum, a first for the museum but a perfect choice for this designer.

The makeup room was bright and airy (Thank you!) and the presentation was sectioned in to 3 parts; a film showing a journey through his garments, an installation where sensors where placed inside the clothes and the collection hung on tent frames, beautifully lit. Touching the clothes would set off the sensor & would then play a sound. When the room was full of people experiencing/touching the fabrics etc. the room filled with abstract music...

My inspiration for the show came from the primary colours used in the collection.

I thought I would steer away from skin highlights and contouring this season as it’s so easily done for Spring/Summer.

The hair was very "real" so fresh clean skin without sheen was easily achieved with Mac Invisible powder.

Wherever possible the brows were erased using Mac concealer and brushed upwards for a fresh "outdoor" feeling.

A light grey opaque shadow was used to naturally contour the socket but no mascara was needed as I wanted to draw attention away from the eyes.

The face would now become a blank canvas but the edge would be the lip.

Using a new MAC spring summer colour called ‘Watch me Shimmer’ (I LOVE it!) I filled in the mouth using a brush then pressed in a pigment making the lips look  like they were covered in fabric.

The stylist Jane Townsend was amazing teaming cool socks and perfect shoes and just adding her touch of magic to the overall look.

Louise from MAC kindly showed me through the SS12 colours and worked very hard along with Naomi, Helen and Rebecca, all troopers!

The show received great reviews and was covered by style.com, Vogue and Dazed to name a few.